Balat & Fener, Istanbul

Balat and Fener lie side by side on the shore of the Golden Horn, inside the Byzantine sea walls. The name Balat is thought to derive from the Greek palation, recalling the nearby Blachernae Palace, the main imperial residence in the late Byzantine period. Fener comes from the Greek phanari, “lantern” or “lighthouse”.

Balat has been home to a Jewish community since Byzantine times. After 1492 many Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain settled here, and synagogues such as the Ahrida Synagogue, founded in the 15th century by Jews from Ohrid, became centres of community life. Armenian and Greek families lived alongside them, creating one of the most multicultural neighbourhoods of Ottoman Istanbul.

Fener became the heart of the Greek Orthodox world. In 1601 the Ecumenical Patriarchate settled at the Church of St George, where it remains today. Wealthy Greek families known as the Phanariots built stone mansions here and played a major role in Ottoman diplomacy. Their legacy includes the imposing red-brick Phanar Greek Orthodox College, whose present building dates from 1881–1883 and dominates the skyline above the Golden Horn.

On the waterfront stands the Bulgarian St Stephen Church, a remarkable cast-iron church whose prefabricated parts were made in Vienna and assembled in Istanbul; it was consecrated in 1898 and reopened after restoration in 2018. Nearby, the Fethiye Mosque preserves the Byzantine Pammakaristos church and its mosaics.

In the 20th century many of the original communities left, and the old houses fell into decline. Rehabilitation programmes in the early 2000s restored dozens of buildings, and in recent years the colourful streets, cafés and antique shops have made Balat and Fener one of Istanbul’s most popular areas to explore on foot.

Start at the waterfront with the Bulgarian St Stephen Church, then visit the Ecumenical Patriarchate and the Church of St George in Fener. Climb the steep lanes to the Phanar Greek Orthodox College for views over the Golden Horn.

Continue into Balat to photograph the famous colourful houses on Kiremit Caddesi and the stepped Merdivenli Yokuş, and browse the antique and vintage shops along Vodina Caddesi. Stop at one of the many cafés for Turkish breakfast, coffee or homemade cakes.

History lovers can add the Fethiye Mosque and its Byzantine mosaics, or walk up towards Edirnekapı to the Chora (Kariye) Mosque and the land walls, about 20 minutes away. The Ahrida Synagogue can only be visited with prior permission.

A good route: St Stephen Church – Patriarchate – Phanar Greek College – Kiremit Caddesi – Vodina Caddesi – Balat waterfront. Weekday mornings are best for photos; weekends are busy but lively. Finish with a sunset walk in the seaside park along the Golden Horn.

Balat and Fener also combine well with Eyüp and Pierre Loti Hill further up the Golden Horn, reached in a few minutes by tram, bus or ferry. A guided walking tour helps to bring the Greek, Jewish and Armenian stories of the neighbourhood to life and opens doors you might otherwise walk past.

Getting there: the T5 tram runs along the Golden Horn with stops at Fener and Balat. Buses from Eminönü follow the same shore, and Haliç ferries call at Fener and Balat piers.

Walking: streets are steep and cobbled – wear comfortable shoes.

Etiquette: Balat is a residential neighbourhood; ask before photographing people, keep noise down and do not block doorways. Dress modestly in churches, mosques and the Patriarchate.

Best time: weekday mornings in spring and autumn, with soft light and fewer crowds.