Aksaray, Istanbul

In Byzantine times the Aksaray area lay along the Mese, Constantinople’s main avenue, near the Forum of the Ox (Forum Bovis) and the valley of the Lykos stream. Its name dates from the Ottoman period: after Sultan Mehmed II conquered the city in 1453, he resettled families from the town of Aksaray in central Anatolia here in the late 1460s to repopulate the capital, and the neighbourhood kept the name of their hometown.

One of the earliest Ottoman buildings in the area is the Murat Paşa Mosque, built around 1470 by a Byzantine-born vizier of Mehmed II, a rare example of the early Bursa-style mosque plan in Istanbul. Over the following centuries Aksaray grew into a residential district of wooden houses, small mosques and fountains on the road leading to the land walls.

The district’s most striking monument is the Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Mosque, completed in 1871 for Pertevniyal Sultan, mother of Sultan Abdülaziz. Its eclectic design mixes Ottoman forms with Gothic, Renaissance and Moorish details, and its richly decorated interior makes it one of the most unusual mosques of the late Ottoman era.

In the 1950s Aksaray was transformed by large-scale road projects: Vatan and Millet avenues were cut through the old quarter, creating the busy junction that defines the area today. Later the arrival of the light metro, the tram and the nearby Yenikapı transfer centre turned Aksaray into one of the city’s main transport hubs. Many hotels, shops and restaurants now line its streets, serving visitors who want an affordable base within easy reach of the Old City.

Visit the Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Mosque for its elaborate façade, carved stone gates and gilded interior, then look for the small 15th-century Murat Paşa Mosque nearby on Vatan Caddesi.

Aksaray is a great springboard for sightseeing. The T1 tram takes you east to the Grand Bazaar, Sultanahmet and Eminönü in a few stops, while a short walk uphill leads to the Laleli Mosque and Beyazıt Square. Heading west, buses and the metro reach the land walls and the Chora area.

Shopping is varied: clothing and textile shops spill over from neighbouring Laleli, and the underpass beneath the junction is lined with small stores. Around Yusufpaşa and the side streets you will find kebab houses, pide bakeries, sweet shops and restaurants serving Turkish, Middle Eastern and Central Asian dishes.

Ten minutes on foot brings you to Yenikapı, where the Marmaray and M2 lines connect to the Asian side and Taksim. Evenings are lively, with shops and cafés open late.

Thanks to these connections, Aksaray works well as a base for day trips: the Bosphorus ferries at Eminönü, the Asian side via Marmaray, and the Golden Horn quarters of Balat and Fener are all within easy reach. Many guided city tours also offer hotel pick-up in Aksaray, so you can explore Istanbul without planning every transfer yourself.

Getting there: the T1 tram stops at Aksaray and Yusufpaşa; the M1A (towards Atatürk Havalimanı) and M1B (towards Kirazlı) metro lines both stop at Aksaray station. Yenikapı (Marmaray, M2) is a 10-minute walk.

Getting around: crossing the main avenues is easiest via the underpasses and footbridges.

Visiting mosques: dress modestly and avoid prayer times.

Safety: Aksaray is a busy commercial hub; keep an eye on your belongings at stations, use licensed taxis or apps, and prefer the main streets at night.