Beyazıt, Istanbul

Beyazıt Square stands on the site of the Forum of Theodosius, the largest public square of Byzantine Constantinople, laid out in 393 on the city’s main ceremonial avenue, the Mese. Known also as the Forum Tauri, it was adorned with a triumphal arch whose carved marble columns and fragments can still be seen along Ordu Caddesi beside the tram line.

Soon after the conquest of 1453, Sultan Mehmed II built his first palace, the Eski Saray (Old Palace), on this hill. Later his son Bayezid II commissioned the mosque complex that gave the district its name. Completed in the first years of the 16th century, the Bayezid II Mosque is the oldest surviving imperial mosque in Istanbul and a key step in the development of classical Ottoman architecture, with a fine arcaded courtyard and a soup kitchen, madrasa and bath in its complex.

Behind the mosque, the Sahaflar Çarşısı continues the area’s link with the written word: a booksellers’ market stood here in Byzantine times, and Ottoman manuscript and book dealers settled around the courtyard. A bust of İbrahim Müteferrika, the first Ottoman Muslim printer, watches over the stalls today.

In the 19th century the Old Palace grounds became the headquarters of the Ottoman Ministry of War. Its monumental gate, built in the 1860s, now forms the main entrance of Istanbul University, and the white stone Beyazıt Tower, erected in 1828 as a fire-watch tower, still rises within the campus. During the Republican era the square became a centre of student life and public gatherings, and its present layout was reshaped in the 20th century. Today Beyazıt links the Grand Bazaar, the university and the Süleymaniye hill in one busy, historic space.

Begin at the Bayezid II Mosque, admiring its marble courtyard and fountain, then walk through the gate into the Sahaflar Çarşısı to browse second-hand books, prints, calligraphy and maps under the plane trees.

The Beyazıt gate of the Grand Bazaar is only a few steps away – lose yourself among jewellers, carpet dealers and lamp shops, and stop for tea in one of its inner hans. Cross the square to see the grand ceremonial gate of Istanbul University and the Beyazıt Tower behind it.

Along Ordu Caddesi look for the toppled marble columns of the Forum of Theodosius, then continue uphill through the quiet lanes behind the university to the Süleymaniye Mosque, about 10 minutes away, for panoramic views over the Golden Horn.

The area has plenty of simple eateries: try traditional bean stews and rice near Süleymaniye, or a quick döner and freshly squeezed juice around Vezneciler. Mornings are best for the bazaar and the mosque; late afternoon brings a relaxed student atmosphere to the square.

Book lovers can also look at the Beyazıt State Library, founded in 1884 as the first public library of the Ottoman state and housed in historic buildings of the mosque complex. Many guided Old City walking tours pass through Beyazıt, combining it with the Grand Bazaar, Süleymaniye and Sultanahmet in a single day.

Getting there: take the T1 tram to Beyazıt–Kapalıçarşı stop. The M2 metro’s Vezneciler–İstanbul Ü. station is a 5-minute walk away.

Visiting the mosque: dress modestly, women should cover their hair, and avoid prayer times, especially Friday noon.

Bazaar: the Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays and public holidays; the book market is quieter on Sundays too.

Safety: the square is crowded on weekdays – keep valuables close in the bazaar. Combine Beyazıt with Süleymaniye and Sultanahmet for a full walking day.