Eminönü, Istanbul

Eminönü faces the Golden Horn, the natural harbour that made Constantinople a great trading city. In the Byzantine era this shoreline was given to merchant communities from Italy: from the 11th and 12th centuries the Venetians, Amalfitans, Pisans and Genoese held quarters, warehouses and landing stages here, protected by the sea walls along the water.

After the Ottoman conquest of 1453 the area remained the commercial gateway of the city. Its name is usually explained by the customs office that stood on the quay: emin was the title of the customs official, and önü means “in front of”. Ships unloaded spices, grain and goods from across the empire, and the surrounding streets filled with hans and markets.

The skyline was transformed in the 16th and 17th centuries. Mimar Sinan built the Rüstem Pasha Mosque for the grand vizier Rüstem Pasha around 1561–1563, famous for its exquisite İznik tiles. The New Mosque (Yeni Cami), begun in 1597 by Safiye Sultan, was completed in 1665 under Turhan Hatice Sultan, and the L-shaped Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, was built as part of its complex to fund the mosque.

The 19th and 20th centuries brought modern transport. Sirkeci Station, opened in 1890, became the terminus of the Orient Express, while successive Galata Bridges linked Eminönü with Karaköy across the Golden Horn – the current bridge opened in 1994. Steam ferries began connecting the quay with the Bosphorus villages and the Asian shore. Today Eminönü remains one of the busiest places in Istanbul, mixing historic mosques, traditional trade and constant ferry traffic.

Wander through the Spice Bazaar to sample Turkish delight, dried fruit, nuts, teas and spices, then explore the outer streets where cheese, olive and coffee sellers trade – including the famous Turkish coffee roaster near the bazaar. Visit the New Mosque beside the square and climb the steps to the hidden Rüstem Pasha Mosque to see its tiles.

Walk across the Galata Bridge, lined with anglers, towards Karaköy and the Galata Tower, enjoying views of the Süleymaniye Mosque and the Golden Horn. On the waterfront, try the classic balık ekmek (grilled fish sandwich) from the boats and pickle juice from street stalls.

Eminönü is the starting point for many Bosphorus cruises and public ferries to Kadıköy and Üsküdar – one of the best-value ways to see the city from the water. The narrow streets climbing towards the Grand Bazaar, such as Tahtakale, are full of wholesale shops selling everything from kitchenware to toys.

Come in the morning for the markets, and stay until sunset, when the mosques glow above the busy quay and the ferries criss-cross the water.

From Eminönü it is an easy walk uphill to the Grand Bazaar and the Süleymaniye Mosque, or a short tram ride to Sultanahmet. Across the Galata Bridge, Karaköy offers cafés, galleries and the climb to the Galata Tower.

Getting there: the T1 tram stops at Eminönü and Sirkeci; Marmaray stops at Sirkeci. Ferries arrive from Kadıköy, Üsküdar and the Bosphorus.

Crowds: Eminönü is extremely busy, especially on Saturdays and before holidays – keep wallets and phones secure.

Ferries: use an Istanbulkart for public ferries; check whether a cruise is a short tour or a full Bosphorus trip before buying.

Visiting mosques: dress modestly and avoid prayer times. The Spice Bazaar opens daily, but surrounding shops may close earlier on Sundays.