Samatya, Istanbul

Samatya is one of the oldest inhabited parts of Istanbul. Known in Byzantine times as Psamathia – from the Greek word for sand – it lay inside the Theodosian walls near the Sea of Marmara, and was home to monasteries and churches. The most famous is the Monastery of Stoudios, founded around 463 by the consul Stoudios and dedicated to St John the Baptist. Its basilica, the oldest surviving church structure in the city, became a centre of learning and monastic reform. In the Ottoman period it was converted into the İmrahor İlyas Bey Mosque, later damaged by earthquake and fire.

Another Byzantine foundation, the church of St Andrew in Krisei, was turned into a mosque in the late 15th century by the vizier Koca Mustafa Pasha; it is known today as the Sümbül Efendi Mosque, after the Sufi sheikh buried there, and gave the wider neighbourhood the name Kocamustafapaşa.

After the conquest of 1453 Sultan Mehmed II settled Armenian families in Samatya, and the district became the first seat of the Armenian Patriarchate in Istanbul before it moved to Kumkapı. The Armenian church of Surp Kevork, Greek Orthodox churches such as St George and St Menas, and old schools still reflect this multicultural past. For centuries Samatya was a quiet quarter of fishermen, artisans and wooden houses close to the sea gates.

In the 20th century the coastal road separated the neighbourhood from the shore, and the suburban railway gave it a commuter role. Samatya kept its village atmosphere, however, with its small square, tea gardens and fish taverns, and today it is valued as one of the most authentic residential corners of the historic peninsula.

Start at Samatya Square, ringed by fishmongers, greengrocers and simple taverns. In the evening the local meyhanes serve meze, grilled fish and liver, at a more relaxed, neighbourhood pace than busier Kumkapı.

Walk through the narrow streets to see the Armenian Surp Kevork Church, the Greek Orthodox churches and the old houses with bay windows. Continue to the ruins of the Stoudios Monastery (İmrahor), then to the Sümbül Efendi Mosque complex in Kocamustafapaşa, with its shaded courtyard and historic tree.

A suggested route links Samatya with Yedikule Fortress, about 15 minutes west, where the Golden Gate of the Theodosian walls and the Ottoman towers stand next to old vegetable gardens. Alternatively, cross to the seaside park along Kennedy Caddesi for a walk or a picnic by the Sea of Marmara.

Late afternoon is the best time: explore the churches and streets in daylight, watch the sunset from the shore and stay for dinner in the square.

Photographers will enjoy the faded wooden houses, bay windows and old shop signs that survive in the side streets, as well as everyday scenes of neighbours chatting outside bakeries and tea houses. Samatya combines well with Kumkapı and Yedikule on a half-day walk along the Marmara shore of the historic peninsula, away from the crowds of the Old City.

Getting there: take the Sirkeci–Kazlıçeşme rail line (T6) to Kocamustafapaşa station, right in the neighbourhood, or to Yedikule for the fortress. Buses from Eminönü run along the coastal road.

Visiting: churches are often open only during services or by arrangement; respect residents’ privacy and dress modestly for mosques.

Eating out: taverns are local and good value, but confirm fish prices before ordering.

Best time: spring and autumn afternoons; the square is liveliest at weekends. Samatya is a residential area, so evenings are calm and generally safe.