Kadıköy, Istanbul

Kadıköy is older than Istanbul itself. Around 685 BC Greek colonists from Megara founded Chalcedon here, some years before Byzantion was established across the Bosphorus. According to Herodotus, the Persian general Megabazus called the Chalcedonians blind for choosing this site when the far better harbour of Byzantion lay opposite. The city was sacked and rebuilt many times, and in 451 AD it hosted the Council of Chalcedon, one of the great ecumenical councils of the early Church.

After the Ottoman conquest the area was granted to Istanbul's first kadı (judge), and it became known as Kadıköy, "the judge's village". For centuries it remained a quiet market town of Greeks, Armenians and Turks surrounded by gardens and orchards. In the 19th century regular steam ferries began to link Kadıköy with the European shore, and wealthy families built mansions in Moda, Yeldeğirmeni and along the road to Bağdat Avenue.

The railway era transformed the waterfront. Haydarpaşa Station, terminus of the Anatolian and Baghdad railways, was built in 1906–1908 by the German architects Otto Ritter and Helmuth Cuno; its castle-like silhouette rises from the sea on hundreds of timber piles. The elegant Moda Pier followed in 1917, designed by the architect Vedat Tek, and in 1927 the Süreyya Opera House opened on Bahariye Avenue as the first musical theatre on the Asian side.

Through the 20th century Kadıköy grew into a large residential district and the cultural centre of Asian Istanbul, home to Fenerbahçe Sports Club, independent theatres, bookshops and a thriving café and bar scene. Restored and reopened in 2022, Moda Pier is once again a favourite meeting point by the sea.

Start at the ferry pier and plunge into the Kadıköy market (Çarşı): Güneşlibahçe and Serasker streets are packed with fishmongers, delicatessens, pickle shops and spice and coffee sellers. Graze on stuffed mussels, Turkish delight, cheese and börek, or have lunch at one of the tradesmen's restaurants and Anatolian kitchens that make the market a pilgrimage for food lovers.

Walk up Bahariye Avenue past the Süreyya Opera House, and follow the nostalgic tram line towards Moda. Moda's shady streets lead to the seafront park, Moda Pier and tea gardens where locals watch the sun set over the historic peninsula. In Yeldeğirmeni, look for the colourful murals painted during street-art festivals, and on Tuesdays visit the huge open-air Kadıköy Tuesday Market in Hasanpaşa.

Nightlife centres on Kadife Sokak, nicknamed Barlar Sokağı (Bar Street), and the lanes around it. Haydarpaşa Station is best admired from the ferry or the waterfront nearby, and football fans can visit Fenerbahçe's Şükrü Saracoğlu Stadium. Kadıköy is busiest in the evening and at weekends; mornings are ideal for the market.

Food lovers should join a guided food tour to taste regional dishes from all over Turkey, from lahmacun and kebabs to Black Sea anchovies, Anatolian cheeses and syrupy desserts. Afterwards, take the ferry back to the European side at dusk for one of the most beautiful views of the historic skyline.

The most scenic way to arrive is by ferry from Eminönü, Karaköy or Beşiktaş, a crossing of about 20 minutes. Kadıköy is also the terminus of the M4 metro, which connects with the Marmaray rail line at Ayrılık Çeşmesi. A nostalgic tram loops between Kadıköy and Moda. Use an Istanbulkart for all public transport.

The market streets get very crowded, so keep bags closed and phones secure. Bring cash for small vendors. Visit the market in the morning, walk to Moda for sunset, and stay for dinner and music in the evening.