Nişantaşı, Istanbul

Nişantaşı takes its name from the "target stones" (nişan taşları) that once dotted its hillside. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries Sultans Selim III and Mahmud II practised archery and shooting here, and stone columns inscribed with their record shots were raised where the arrows or bullets landed. One of these marble columns still stands near Teşvikiye.

Selim III also founded the Teşvikiye quarter and its mosque in 1794; the name means "encouragement", reflecting his efforts to persuade people to settle on what was then open countryside. After Sultan Abdülmecid moved the court to Dolmabahçe Palace in the 1850s, the ridge above the Bosphorus suddenly became fashionable. The Teşvikiye Mosque was rebuilt in 1854, and pashas, palace officials and wealthy families built mansions and gardens along the new avenues.

In the late Ottoman and early Republican decades many mansions gave way to elegant apartment blocks in Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles, which still line Valikonağı, Rumeli and Teşvikiye avenues. The neighbourhood became home to writers, artists and Istanbul's old families; Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk grew up in the family apartment in Teşvikiye and described the area in his memoir Istanbul: Memories and the City.

From the 1970s onwards Nişantaşı turned into the city's fashion capital. Abdi İpekçi Avenue, named after the newspaper editor assassinated in 1979, filled with international luxury brands, while Turkish designers, galleries and patisseries opened in the side streets. A peace monument to İpekçi stands in the neighbourhood today. Next door, Maçka Park and the Maçka valley form a green link down towards the Bosphorus and Beşiktaş.

Nişantaşı is made for strolling. Start on Abdi İpekçi Avenue, Istanbul's luxury shopping street, then explore Teşvikiye, Rumeli and Valikonağı avenues for Turkish designer labels, concept stores, bookshops and the flagship store of Vakko, the historic Turkish fashion house. City's Nişantaşı is a compact upscale shopping centre if the weather turns.

Between shops, admire the Art Nouveau apartment blocks and visit the Teşvikiye Mosque, an elegant Neo-Baroque building with a classical portico on the main square. Look for the slender marble target stone that gave the district its name.

Café culture is a big part of local life: sit outside for Turkish coffee or a long breakfast, browse patisseries and chocolatiers, and book dinner in one of the many bistros and international restaurants. For greenery, walk down to Maçka Park, where locals jog and picnic, and ride the short Maçka cable car across the valley.

The Atatürk Museum in Şişli and the Military Museum in Harbiye are both within walking distance. Weekdays from late morning are pleasant for shopping; Saturday afternoons are the busiest time.

Art lovers will find small private galleries and auction houses tucked into the residential streets, and in the evening the cafés of Teşvikiye and the restaurants around Maçka turn into a relaxed dining scene that is popular with locals rather than tour groups.

The nearest metro station is Osmanbey on the M2 line, a 5–10 minute walk from the main shopping streets. From Taksim you can take the metro one stop to Osmanbey or walk through Harbiye in about 20–25 minutes. The Maçka cable car links Taşkışla, near Taksim, with Maçka Park.

Prices in boutiques, cafés and restaurants are among the highest in Istanbul, so check menus before ordering. Dress is smart-casual, and modest clothing is required inside the mosque. The area is safe and pleasant to walk at night.