Beylerbeyi, Istanbul

Beylerbeyi lies on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus between Kuzguncuk and Çengelköy, where the July 15 Martyrs Bridge now lands. In Byzantine and early Ottoman times the village was called Istavroz, from the Greek stavros, "cross", traditionally linked to a cross raised here by Emperor Constantine. Its present name dates from the 16th century, when Mehmed Pasha, the beylerbeyi (governor-general) of Rumelia, built a waterfront mansion here.

The shore soon became a favourite of the Ottoman court. In 1778 Sultan Abdülhamid I built the Hamid-i Evvel Mosque, known as the Beylerbeyi Mosque, right on the water; its architect was Mehmed Tahir Ağa, and its interior is decorated with fine tiles. Sultans built wooden summer palaces and gardens on the slopes behind it, the predecessors of today's stone palace.

The present Beylerbeyi Palace was built in 1861–1865 for Sultan Abdülaziz to designs by Sarkis Balyan and his brother Agop. Used as a summer residence and as a guest palace for visiting royalty, it welcomed Empress Eugénie of France in 1869, and the deposed Sultan Abdülhamid II spent the last years of his life here until his death in 1918. The palace's marble Sea Pavilions, terraced gardens and the Pool Room with its indoor fountain are its signature features.

In 1973 the Bosphorus Bridge opened directly above the village, and the palace grounds now sit in the shadow of its Asian tower. Despite this, Beylerbeyi has kept its village atmosphere, with old wooden houses, a small harbour full of fishing boats and waterfront cafés where locals linger over tea and breakfast.

Tour Beylerbeyi Palace, the elegant summer palace with fine Bosphorus views. Visits cover the Selamlık and Harem rooms, the Pool Room with its fountain and the terraced gardens; the two small marble Sea Pavilions on the shore are among the most photographed buildings on the Asian side. Opening days and photography rules are set by the National Palaces administration, so check before you go.

Walk north along the shore to the Hamid-i Evvel Mosque and the village square, where the pier, fish restaurants and tea gardens look across to Ortaköy and Arnavutköy. Have breakfast or a fish lunch by the water, then continue to Çengelköy, known for its waterside tea garden under an old plane tree.

South of the palace, Kuzguncuk's colourful wooden houses, church, synagogue and mosque make a lovely detour. Bosphorus cruises pass right in front of Beylerbeyi Palace, giving the best view of its façade from the water. Spring and autumn weekdays are ideal for a visit; weekend traffic along the coast road can be heavy.

Beylerbeyi is also a good place to taste simple Bosphorus pleasures: grilled fish fresh from the morning catch, a generous Turkish breakfast with honey and kaymak, and endless glasses of tea while ferries and tankers glide past the European shore.

Beylerbeyi has no metro station. Reach Üsküdar by ferry, Marmaray or the M5 metro, then take one of the frequent buses north along the coast road; the ride takes about 10–15 minutes. A taxi from Üsküdar is quick outside rush hour.

The palace is closed one day a week, and visitor numbers may be limited, so check opening times in advance. Dress modestly for the mosque. Waterfront cafés fill up at weekend breakfast time, so arrive early or visit on a weekday.