Laleli, Istanbul

Laleli lies on the third hill of the historic peninsula, along the line of the Byzantine Mese, the main avenue that ran from the imperial palace to the city walls. One of its finest Byzantine survivors is the Myrelaion, a small church built around 920 by Emperor Romanos I Lekapenos beside his palace. Under the Ottomans it became the Bodrum Mosque, and its brick façades and the huge rotunda beneath it still hint at the grandeur of the Middle Byzantine city.

The name Laleli, meaning “with tulips”, is linked by tradition to a local holy man known as Laleli Baba. The district’s landmark is the Laleli Mosque, commissioned by Sultan Mustafa III and built between 1760 and 1764. It is one of the most important examples of the Ottoman Baroque style, combining a classical domed plan with curving lines, rich marble decoration and an unusual raised platform. Beneath the mosque lie vaulted spaces that today house shops, and the complex includes the tomb of Mustafa III, where Sultan Selim III is also buried.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries Laleli was a residential quarter of wooden houses and small mansions. Major road works in the 1950s widened Ordu Caddesi, and in the following decades many old houses were replaced by modern buildings.

From the 1980s and especially the 1990s, Laleli became one of the largest wholesale clothing markets in the region, attracting traders from Russia, Eastern Europe, the Caucasus and Central Asia. Signs in Cyrillic, cargo offices and hundreds of showrooms still define its streets, while a dense cluster of hotels makes it a practical base for visitors to the Old City.

Visit the Laleli Mosque to see its Baroque marble work, coloured stone panels and courtyard, then walk around the platform to find the sultan’s tomb and the fountain. A few minutes south, the Bodrum Mosque (Myrelaion) is one of the best-preserved small Byzantine churches in the city.

Shopping is the main activity here: the streets between Ordu Caddesi and Gençtürk Caddesi are lined with shops selling leather, knitwear, fashion and textiles, mostly wholesale but often happy to sell single items. Prices are usually displayed in several currencies.

Laleli is also a convenient starting point for walks: it is a short stroll to Beyazıt Square, the Grand Bazaar and the Süleymaniye Mosque, while Kumkapı’s fish restaurants are about 15 minutes downhill towards the sea.

For food, look for kebab houses, pide bakeries and cafés around Ordu Caddesi; many restaurants serve Russian and Central Asian dishes too. Weekday mornings show the market at its busiest; evenings are calmer and good for a stroll to the illuminated mosque.

If you have more time, take the T1 tram a few stops east to Sultanahmet for Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, or walk west to Aksaray to see the ornate Pertevniyal Valide Sultan Mosque. Guided Old City tours with hotel pick-up from Laleli make it easy to see the main monuments without worrying about transport or tickets.

Getting there: the T1 tram stops at Laleli–İstanbul Ü., right by the mosque. Aksaray metro (M1) and Yenikapı (Marmaray, M2) are a short walk away.

Shopping: many shops sell in bulk; ask politely whether single pieces are available and compare prices before buying.

Visiting the mosque: dress modestly and avoid prayer times.

Safety: streets are crowded with porters and delivery carts during the day – watch your step and your bag. Laleli is a practical, budget-friendly hotel area within walking distance of Sultanahmet.