Eyüp & Pierre Loti Hill, Istanbul

Eyüp lies at the head of the Golden Horn, outside the Byzantine land walls. Its spiritual importance comes from Abu Ayyub al-Ansari (Eyüp Sultan in Turkish), a companion and standard-bearer of the Prophet Muhammad, who is believed to have died during an Arab siege of Constantinople in the 7th century and to have been buried near the walls.

After the conquest of 1453, Sultan Mehmed II built a tomb over the grave and, in 1458, the first Eyüp Sultan Mosque beside it – the first imperial mosque built by the Ottomans in the city. The site became the holiest in Istanbul: for centuries new sultans came here to be girded with the Sword of Osman, the Ottoman equivalent of a coronation. After earthquake damage the mosque was rebuilt in the Baroque-influenced style of Sultan Selim III, completed around 1800.

Being close to such a revered shrine, Eyüp became a favoured burial place. Viziers, scholars and members of the dynasty built tombs here, and the hillside above the mosque turned into a vast cemetery of carved Ottoman tombstones. The district also had summer palaces, tekkes, fountains and workshops famous for wooden toys.

The hill above the cemetery takes its name from Pierre Loti, the pen name of the French naval officer and novelist Julien Viaud, who stayed in Eyüp in 1876 and wrote about the city in his novel Aziyadé. He was a friend of the Ottomans and a frequent visitor to the hilltop coffee house, which later became known by his name. The cable car linking the shore with the hilltop opened in 2005, and today Eyüp combines pilgrimage, history and one of Istanbul’s best-loved viewpoints.

Begin at the Eyüp Sultan Mosque and the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, decorated with İznik tiles. The courtyard, with its ancient plane trees and pigeons, is full of pilgrims, families and newly circumcised boys in traditional costume at weekends.

Wander along the market street outside the mosque for prayer beads, religious books, sweets and toys, then take the cable car up to Pierre Loti Hill – or walk up through the atmospheric Ottoman cemetery in about 15–20 minutes.

At the top, sit in the historic Pierre Loti Café with a Turkish tea, coffee or sahlep and enjoy the panorama over the Golden Horn, its bridges and the skyline of the Old City. Sunset is the most popular time.

Back in the valley, explore the waterfront and the riverside park, or combine your visit with nearby Balat and Fener on the same day. For a scenic return, take the Haliç ferry from Eyüp pier back towards Karaköy, passing the old shipyards and neighbourhoods of the Golden Horn.

Allow around half a day for Eyüp and Pierre Loti Hill. Combined with Balat and Fener, it makes a full and varied Golden Horn itinerary, and many guided Istanbul tours include a cable car ride and a tea stop at the hilltop café.

Getting there: the T5 tram along the Golden Horn stops near the cable car station; buses run from Eminönü, and Haliç ferries call at Eyüp pier. The cable car accepts the Istanbulkart.

Dress code: Eyüp is a sacred site – cover shoulders and knees, women should cover their hair, and behave quietly at the tomb.

Timing: avoid Friday noon prayers if sightseeing; weekends and religious holidays are very crowded. Arrive at the hilltop before sunset to find a table.

Safety: the area is family-friendly; watch your step on the uneven cemetery path.