Bebek & Arnavutköy, Istanbul

Arnavutköy and Bebek lie side by side on the European shore of the Bosphorus, separated by the headland of Akıntıburnu, where the strait's current is at its strongest. In Byzantine times Arnavutköy was known as Hestiai and later as Mega Revma, "the great current", while the bay of Bebek was a sheltered anchorage below wooded slopes.

In 1452, a year before the conquest of Constantinople, Mehmed II built the fortress of Rumelihisarı just north of Bebek to control the strait, and Ottoman villages grew along the water. The name Arnavutköy means "Albanian village", yet for centuries it was a largely Greek Orthodox community of fishermen and vine-growers, and the Taxiarchis Church still stands in its back streets. Bebek became a favoured summer retreat of Ottoman officials, who built kiosks and yalı mansions on the shore; in 1725 Sultan Ahmed III added a waterfront pavilion here during the Tulip Era.

In the 19th century the villages attracted foreign residents and schools. Robert College, the oldest American school still operating abroad, was founded in 1863 and moved to the hill above Bebek in 1871; its original campus is now Boğaziçi University. In 1902 an Art Nouveau mansion was built on the Bebek shore for Emine Hanım, mother of Abbas Hilmi II, the last Khedive of Egypt – today it serves as the Egyptian Consulate. The Bebek Mosque, designed by Mimar Kemaleddin, was completed in 1913.

Arnavutköy's rows of wooden houses with bay windows, many from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, survived better than most of Istanbul's timber architecture. Today the two villages are among the city's most sought-after addresses, loved for their cafés, fish restaurants and seaside walks.

The best way to explore is on foot along the seaside promenade that runs from Arnavutköy around Akıntıburnu to Bebek Bay – about two kilometres of fishermen, joggers and Bosphorus views. In Arnavutköy, wander the narrow streets behind the shore to see the painted wooden houses and the Taxiarchis Church, then stop for meze and grilled fish in one of the waterside restaurants.

Bebek is café country: have coffee or breakfast by the park and pier, watch the yachts in the bay and try the almond marzipan of Bebek Badem Ezmecisi, a confectioner trading since 1904. The Bebek Mosque and the Art Nouveau Egyptian Consulate, which can be admired from outside, stand on the waterfront.

Continue north to see the towers and walls of Rumelihisarı, or climb to the Boğaziçi University campus for sweeping views over the strait. Evenings bring a lively restaurant and bar scene on Cevdet Paşa Avenue. Weekday mornings are calm, while sunny weekends fill the promenade and cafés with Istanbul families.

Seafood is the local speciality. Arnavutköy's restaurants serve seasonal fish such as bonito, bluefish and turbot with fresh meze, while Bebek's bakeries and cafés are the place for pastries and Turkish breakfast. Many Bosphorus cruises sail close to the shore here, offering the best views of the yalı mansions, and photographers will find the colourful houses most attractive in the soft morning light.

There is no metro to Bebek or Arnavutköy. Coastal buses run frequently from Kabataş and Beşiktaş and take about 20–30 minutes; a taxi from Taksim takes a similar time outside rush hour. Parking is very limited, so avoid driving.

Bring a light jacket, as the wind off the water can be cool even in summer. Cafés and restaurants are busiest at weekend brunch and on sunny evenings, so book ahead for dinner. Weekday mornings and sunset are the best times for a peaceful walk and photographs.