Rüstem Pasha Mosque

Tucked away in the busy market streets of Tahtakale, a few minutes' walk from the Spice Bazaar, the Rüstem Pasha Mosque is easy to miss and impossible to forget. From the street you see only a stairway between shops, but at the top you enter one of the most beautiful interiors in Istanbul, covered almost entirely in exquisite İznik tiles.

History

The mosque was built for Rüstem Pasha, twice Grand Vizier to Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent and husband of the sultan's daughter Mihrimah Sultan. Rüstem Pasha died in 1561, and the mosque was completed around 1563 by the court architect Mimar Sinan. Because the site lay in the commercial heart of the city, Sinan raised the mosque on a high platform above a series of vaulted shops and storerooms, whose rents helped fund it. This clever solution also lifted the building above the noise of the bazaar. Rüstem Pasha was one of the richest men of his time, and the lavish use of costly İznik tiles, at the moment when İznik production was reaching its peak, reflects both his wealth and his taste.

What to See

The prayer hall is crowned by a central dome resting on an octagonal arrangement of arches, with semi-domes in the corners, a compact design typical of Sinan's mosques for viziers. But it is the tiles that make the visit unforgettable. Panels of tulips, carnations, hyacinths, roses and saz leaves cover the walls, piers, mihrab and minbar, as well as the façade of the entrance portico.

• İznik tiles – some of the earliest uses of the famous bright "tomato red" and a huge variety of floral and geometric designs.
• The portico – a double porch whose outer walls are also faced with tiles.
• Tile panel of the Kaaba – a rare tile depiction of the Great Mosque of Mecca.
• Mihrab and minbar – framed with tiles and carved marble.
• The setting – raised above Hasırcılar Caddesi, with views over the rooftops of the market district.

Visitor Tips

Entry is free. The mosque has two stairway entrances from the surrounding streets; look for the signs on Hasırcılar Caddesi. It is a small, active neighbourhood mosque, closed to visitors during prayer times, so visit mid-morning or mid-afternoon. Dress modestly, remove your shoes and women should cover their hair. Take a moment in the portico to study the tiles at eye level before entering the prayer hall.

Rüstem Pasha Mosque is a highlight for anyone interested in Ottoman art and a perfect addition to a visit to the Spice Bazaar and the New Mosque. On an Inca Tour Istanbul walking tour, your guide will lead you through the lively streets of Eminönü to this hidden treasure and explain the story of the tiles and the grand vizier who commissioned them.